are you looking for something like the old ZZ430 engine? If I remember correctly it had the fast burn heads and a "hot cam" with 1.6 rockers.

check this out:
ZZ430 BASE ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Horsepower: 430 @ 5800 RPM
Torque: 430 Ft. Lbs. @ 4000
Displacement: 350 cubic inches
Bore x Stroke: 4.00 inch x 3.48 inch
Max. Rec. RPM: 5800
Comp. Ratio: 9.6:1
Block: 10105123 Four bolt main, cast iron.
Crankshaft: 12556307 Forged 1053 steel and balanced to the connecting rods and pistons, 1-piece rear seal.
Connecting Rods: 10108688 Forged, powdered metal steel, 3/8” bolts
Pistons: 10159436 High silicon aluminum (Hypereutectic) with offset pins.
Piston rings: 12528817 Low tension, production size.
Camshaft: 24502586, LT4 HOT cam, hydraulic roller tappet
Lift: .525” I, .525” E; Duration @ .050: 218° I, 228° E
Centerline: 109° ATDC (After Top Dead Center) intake, 115° BTDC exhaust
Timing Chain: 8 mm single roller design
Intake Manifold: 12366573 Aluminum, dual plane, no EGR
Cylinder Heads: 12464289 Fast Burn, aluminum, includes valves and springs.
23° valve angle, Valve Diameter (Intake/Exhaust): 2.00” / 1.55”, Chamber Volume: 62 cc
Intake Valves: 12555331 1996 LT4 2.00”
Exhaust Valves: 12551313 1996 LT4 1.55”
Valve Springs: 12551483 1996 LT4
Rocker Arms: 12370839 GM 1.6:1 self aligning roller rockers
Valve Lash: Zero
Spark Plugs: ACDelco MR43LTS Gap @ .045 for HEI distributor.
Fuel: Premium unleaded - 92 (R+M/2), in other words 92 Octane Premium pump gas.
Ignition Timing: 32° total @ 3000 RPM with vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged. This setting will produce 32° of total advance at wide open throttle (WOT).
Firing Order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Oil Pressure, Normal: 40 psi @ 2000 RPM
Oil Filter: ACDelco P/N PF1218 same as GM P/N 2516056. This is a long style filter that holds approximately 1 quart of oil.
Oil Pan: 12557558 5 quart with PF1218 oil filter.
Oil: SAE 10W-30
Note: The GM ZZ430 came from the factory with Mobil 1 10W-30 oil. We do not recommend using synthetic or high lubricant oils or additives until after the engine is completely broken in. After the engine broken in, you can thoroughly flush the engine of the organic oil and replace it with synthetic. Do not mix different types of oil.
Distributor: GM HEI
Valve Covers: Fast Burn 385 black valve covers.

 

I've considered the LT1 hot cam and and zz383 cam, but I'm thinking there are newer, better grinds out now. Given my gearing, I'm trying to raise the power band a little. I'm thinking my cruise will be in the 2400 - 2600 RPM after I put an overdrive transmission in. righ now, 70 MPH is at 3500 RPM.

 

well your block is a roller block yes? I'd stick with a hydraulic roller. Looks like the ones that are most popular and that everybody is happy with are the XE line of comp cams hydraulic rollers. XE282HR or the XE288HR. Lunati cam #60112 would be nice too. In the solids I like the 401A3LUN. Maybe put a 1.6 rocker on the intake on that cam.

 

I like the idea of a roller, but they seam to have RPM limitations compaired to a mechanical flat tappet. The hydraulic roller would be zero maintenance.

I'm hoping to hear from people running mechanical flat tapet cams to see if they are better.

 

I have not run the XS 274 but I did run the XS 268 for about 5 years.
I think it is a great cam. It has a wide power range and I used to shift at 6,200 rpm all of the time. Inadvertantly it saw 6,500 a few times. This was also in a 350. A solid flat tappet is a great way to go. I used to run the valves once or twice a year and that was plenty and I was only using the factory locknuts.

I have installed the XR288 hydraulic roller in my 383. It definitey has more bottom end and midrange. It is installed straight up but I installed the XS 268 retarded 2 degrees. Retarding the XS 268 killed a little of the bottom end in favor of the top end. I need more spring or the XR288 so it doesn't rev quite as freely as it should. I will swap out the springs over the winter. Peak HP for the XR288 should be right around 6,000 rpm with open headers.

As far as cost the retrofit roller with lifters is something like $850-900 vs $300 for the XS cam and lifters. If you already have a roller block, it would seem silly to go backwards as the cam alone is roughly $300. It idles pretty good at around 800 rpm wich is comparable to the XS268. May be rougher in a 350.

 

FYI if you decide to go with the hyd roller check out the comp "beehive" springs. The limitation with hydraulic rollers is not having enough spring pressure and with the lifter limits RPM and can "float" the valves. Withe the beehives the way they are designed has both good spring pressure closed and gives you stable open pressure to increase the RPM range.

Personally I like solid flat tappets too. I have no problems checkin the lash from time to time. Definitely make good power and can buzz it higher than a hyd roller.

 

nothing to swapping out the rollers to solid tappets. Just make sure the flat tappet cam has the correct front gear arrangement like the roller. You're also gonna need the correct length pushrods.