Steve's Nova Site is an automotive enthusiast website dedicated to the 1962 - 1979 Chevrolet Nova, Chevy II and Acadian automobiles. We work together to preserve, restore, drive, show, race and provide fellowship for these classic cars. This is one of the best places to find information about parts, rebuilding, restoration and racing. This website is not affiliated with GM, General Motors or Chevrolet in any capacity.
My rear is 69 Z-28, uncut, I might mini this winter, tires are 235/60/15, wheels-15X8 5.5BS, tires rub ever so slightly, have the winter to take care of this and other thinks because of the stinkin winter
How does your car ride? . Is your car primarily used at the track or does it see street time as well? . In your avitar it looks like you're launching pretty damn good, so if it works, it works, I'm just curious.
As of 2009 my Nova has seen very little street time any more. This year I started racing it every Friday Night in a class at our local track.
My car rides rough on the street in race mode. But I can make some changes to the shocks and preload settings on the Caltrac bars with ease to make it ride MUCH smoother on the street.
Best of a 1.350 60 foot times on 9 inch slicks, It works OK for now.
This is the picture I used for my Avitar and was a 1.4X 60' back in May.
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Just another Blue Nova
1.350 6.319 @ 106.73
In case any of you were still wondering, I finished the tub. This is what it looks like now:
I had to fabricate front spring mounts because the backspacing on my wheels required the rear to be narrowed more than the spring mounts would fit. Ended up moving them inwards in the front about 2 inches each. Definitely not professional, but works for me so far. It sits pretty high too. Will probably get some lowering blocks.
Last edited by mrdreex; 4th-November-2009 at 03:43 PM..
It Defiantly sits a little high...
Is the front new as well? You did say this was going to be more of a strip car didnt you?
Front tires/rims are new, but everything suspension wise is stock. Yea, it will be a street/strip car with emphasis on strip. The front spring mounts had to be placed right under the rear frame rails which is why it's sitting so high.
In case any of you were still wondering, I finished the tub. This is what it looks like now:
I had to fabricate front spring mounts because the backspacing on my wheels required the rear to be narrowed more than the spring mounts would fit. Ended up moving them inwards in the front about 2 inches each. Definitely not professional, but works for me so far. It sits pretty high too. Will probably get some lowering blocks.
mrdreex ... Do you have a pic of the tubs from inside the trunk? If I recall from an earlier post you used the Autoweld tubs ... I'm curious how they look.
On another note ... you need to drop that thing into the weeds ... it will look bitchin' with those wheels.
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'72 Nova (DR 275 under construction), '70 Corvette, '68 Camaro RS/SS, '96 Trans Am WS6
Last edited by gearheadzgarage; 5th-November-2009 at 07:06 PM..
Sorry to jump off of the subject a little bit here, but I am planning on moving my springs in and shocks, and I see the shocks on you guys cars in different locations. I see them both on the backside of the rearend and on the front of the rearend. I have seen them straight up and down and canted in. Can anyone tell me what is the best configuration (behind or in front of the rearend)? I have seen inboard shock kits that locate the shocks in all different locations. Does it make a difference at all? I was going to start ordering stuff and the Caltracs need to be ordered staggered or both shocks front or back and I can't decide where to put the shocks. Thanks guys. Love your minitubbed Novas.
mrdreex ... Do you have a pic of the tubs from inside the trunk? If I recall from an earlier post you used the Autoweld tubs ... I'm curious how they look.
On another note ... you need to drop that thing into the weeds ... it will look bitchin' with those wheels.
Yes, I do, but not with me right now. I will find it later. But, I will tell you they look good.
Yes. I agree 100%. I have to take the rear out to get a leak fixed on my driver side axle tube and will probably put osme lowering blocks in there. I don't know how much though. I'm thinking 2" - 3". Is that reasonable? What about front shocks/springs? How much can I lower that? No experience in this area. Want to keep it stiff for when I get to the strip and eventually go wheels up.
Sorry to jump off of the subject a little bit here, but I am planning on moving my springs in and shocks, and I see the shocks on you guys cars in different locations. I see them both on the backside of the rearend and on the front of the rearend. I have seen them straight up and down and canted in. Can anyone tell me what is the best configuration (behind or in front of the rearend)? I have seen inboard shock kits that locate the shocks in all different locations. Does it make a difference at all? I was going to start ordering stuff and the Caltracs need to be ordered staggered or both shocks front or back and I can't decide where to put the shocks. Thanks guys. Love your minitubbed Novas.
DREDNOT, I am not sure what the optimum shock angle is, but as long as you're not binding, I think you will be OK within reason. Ex. don't have your shocks going inwards/outwards at 90 degrees or something radical looking. That exerts the load in a much different way than designed. I *think* some manufacturers have different shock angles and it varies. I'm no expert on this though, it's just what's logical to me.
The shock location is from the relocation kit that I purchased. I don't think there is an optimum place to put it. From my kit, it would be a bit difficult to put my shocks in front of the rear as there is very little room left to fit anything under there.
Yes, I do, but not with me right now. I will find it later. But, I will tell you they look good.
Yes. I agree 100%. I have to take the rear out to get a leak fixed on my driver side axle tube and will probably put osme lowering blocks in there. I don't know how much though. I'm thinking 2" - 3". Is that reasonable? What about front shocks/springs? How much can I lower that? No experience in this area. Want to keep it stiff for when I get to the strip and eventually go wheels up.
Stiff is not the answer.....
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Just another Blue Nova
1.350 6.319 @ 106.73
I had to fabricate front spring mounts because the backspacing on my wheels required the rear to be narrowed more than the spring mounts would fit. Ended up moving them inwards in the front about 2 inches each. Definitely not professional, but works for me so far. It sits pretty high too. Will probably get some lowering blocks.
let me ask, if the wheels had more backspace, could you have gotten away with not touching the front spring mounts?
whats the advantage of a narrow rear end + less backspace VS a regular rear end + more backspace???
Im seriously thinking about doing that minitub now (those 325s look bad)but only want to do the back offset shackles and the shock relocate. btw, how did you relocate the shocks?
btw, why are dse offset shackles so GD expensive. $275? thats robbery
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Ability is the poor man's wealth
"cheap is not a word in the Hot Rod dictionary" - seattle mike
let me ask, if the wheels had more backspace, could you have gotten away with not touching the front spring mounts?
whats the advantage of a narrow rear end + less backspace VS a regular rear end + more backspace???
Im seriously thinking about doing that minitub now (those 325s look bad)but only want to do the back offset shackles and the shock relocate. btw, how did you relocate the shocks?
btw, why are dse offset shackles so GD expensive. $275? thats robbery
Dude. Nice job with the PS morph. I like it. Maybe a little less of a drop than that though, maybe 1"?
With more backspacing, I would have gotten away with probably not having to move my front spring mounts inwards. Having so little backspacing forced the axle tubes to be alot shorter and limiting where the spring mount/perch could be welded on. Not sure of the advantage other than not having to move your front spring mounts inwards. That's a pain.
The shocks were relocated with a kit from BRP Hotrods (found from another member on here). Came with an upper crossmember that was bolt in, but they also sell a weld in one. I probably should have gotten that one. It's a BUNCH cheaper. The kit came with lower spring/shock mounts, bolts, and the upper crossmember. Also nicely powdercoated silver. Looks very nice.
They're expensive because they're billet and CNC machined. Smith Racecraft sells the exact same things, and man, those things are BEEFY. They quit making them though because they're expensive to produce. Smith Racecraft sells fabricated ones now, which I have. They're a bunch cheaper ($150 or so), lighter, and just as strong. Win/win to be honest.
Bro, I got everything back from the shop. The crank is OK. I got the whole bottom end in tonight as well as degreed the cam back in. It's all just a matter of bolting things on now. Should be back in business next weekend at the latest. Got a vacuum pump from GZ Motorsports on the way too! Should be here next week Mon/Tues. Say bye-bye to oil leaks, and some extra HP.
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